The sewing dip

I was in a dip. A sewing dip. It sucked.

It really started, when I began not making time for sewing. Or rather, when I was realizing I didn’t make any time – it’s been a while since the last dress… I got myself a Netflix account, went out a lot, was away on business and had many more reasons not to go back to the sewing machine (which in a way  imposes itself as a reason not to sew – it just does its own stuff and I believe its in an identity crisis and believes its a blender for the performance it delivers!). I sew for babies and family – but dreaded going back to my projects as I felt I just COULDN’T stand a set back or failure. Which is odd, since I don’t feel that I “failed“ so far in my sewing by any degree.

Two things might have got me sliding down the dip: 1) The revelation that I actually have to fail to get better (hate failing, love getting better, feels like no compromise is acceptable) and thus 2) need to take much more time with one project than rather hopping on to new stuff. And I was just not willing to do this.

Plus I felt I didn’t have the right equipment, not enough space, not the right taste in fabric and style to actually make me wear my creations (old story, I bore you, I know). Of course, this shit couldn’t go on. I needed to get out of that dip. So here is what I did (spoiler alert: the dip is still in sight)

1) a dedicated space I went out to IKEA and got myself a desk where the sewing machines could sit – together with my projects – over night, over days, staring me out, calling for me to get back. It works. I love this space. Spend a lot of time there

! IMG_5103 IMG_5099

2) shopping around for the right equipment This is not done yet; I’m still shopping. I’m between a Janome  DC7100

Janome DC7100

and a plain Brother Innov-is 10A Yes, I know – we are talking two different worlds here. My heart is actually set on the Brother, to tell you the truth. I believe it can do everything I would want it to do. Plus 10 years ahead (though, sure, you’ll never know). I found this awesome sewing machine shop in the suburbs of Munich. That lady is pure magic. And although she has machines 10x the price of the Brother in there and although I showed willingness to spend more, she recommended the Brother. What do we think, people? Do we think anything here?

3) starting with stuff that that was abundant earlier. Get it done!  I started with my cut out muslin for the Grainline Alder Shirtdress. It was a mess. I started cutting and sewing a By Hand London Georgia dress in fabric that obviously was too stretchy for the job. I knew before I started but I though I was more clever than this. It was a disaster. IMG_5119 IMG_5125

4) embrace the learning curve and never go to bed unhappy about a project That’s what you’ve got to do now. I got myself a new fabric for the Georgia dress and will start that asap. As to the Grainline Alder Shirtdress: I love that pattern! But with winter just on the doorstep I feel I can wait till spring to start again. Noted down all the necessary changes as you do. Should be good to go when temperatures rise again and days get longer.

5) set sewing times … so… this is still in set up. Should be stable once the Christmas francy is over and done with.

6) not limit yourself … to stuff I won’t wear vs. stuff I’ll wear That’s an odd one – I keep on saying that I don’t wear my stuff as much as I should. Hence, should stop sewing stuff I don’t wear. But… I LOVE SEWING STUFF I DON’T WEAR (Can I sneak a YET in please?!). Dresses with colorful prints are just THE BEST THING TO SEW. I love it! And why would I give up on something I love? I think it’s just a matter of courage really… I mean… don’t they say „Wear your passion“?! We’ll be getting there! Either way.

7) get inspiration Autumn and winter are anagrams for jersey dresses. At least for me. But since I have little clue about how to work with jersey, I though „Why should I work this out all by myself?! Let’s get a handout“. So I ordered the Colette Guide to Sewing Knits. And I love it. Very well explained – particularly love the alteration section. That will come in handy with a dress I’m planning (harhar).

8) do stuff for others I’m actually planning some Christmas activity here to get me sewing for others…. I believe it will make me pay even more attention to the quality of my sewing. Or it may not. I don’t know. But I’m very sure that I’ll learn a lot. Also, it is a bit of a challenge to put myself out there and say: „I’ll sew stuff for you as a gift“ – and challenges it was that I wanted to take.

Well, you can see, the dip might not be totally behind me yet, but I’m fighting back for my sewing freedom. If you ever had the feeling that – somehow – motivation and progress wouldn’t come I’d love to hear what you did about it. And additional idea to bring sewing back into ones life?

Advertisements

“I’m in fabric heaven. Don’t pinch me!!!” – OMG – Mood Fabrics NYC

1 1/2 hours! At Mood Fabrics. In New York City. It. Was. Amazing.

Foto 06.09.14 03 20 55

Both the City and the store; in their entities not comparably maybe, but if you will: Both so full of choice and possibilities, it made my slightly light-headed (the shop more so than Manhattan… when it comes to dizziness… if that makes any sense… it doesn’t… right… move on, please; this is not a travel blog anyways).

I mean – GUYS – just Look. At. This.

Foto 06.09.14 03 20 39

… and this….

SO MUCH CHOICE! And there’s an Upstairs there, too.

Foto 06.09.14 03 19 37

… fabric as far as the eye can see. Seriously – I’ve never seen such a variety all cramped into one… space.

Foto 06.09.14 03 22 22

(Oh, I would never!!!)

I even caught myself standing in front of swimwear fabric. Lovely lovely swimwear fabric. And I was thinking; I could make a Swimsuit. Why not? Same happened in front of the silk shelf (blouse would have been the project)…

Foto 06.09.14 03 20 31 Foto 06.09.14 03 21 47

… the woven fabric shelf, the striped cotton shelf…

Foto 06.09.14 03 21 48  Foto 06.09.14 03 21 58 Foto 06.09.14 03 22 14

…the brocade, the wool crepe, the lawn, the tons of different jersey varieties…

Foto 06.09.14 03 22 19 Foto 06.09.14 03 22 23

… the poplin, the flannel, the denim (if you look close enough, you might see a glimpse of my confusion in the last picture – photo credits, btw, by the best guy on earth and my boyfriend who not only secretly trailed me through the shop but also took all the above snapshots while I was busy not deciding; and when I “caught” him at it he said: “I’m taking pictures for your blog.” That’s just adorable.)

Spoiled for choice I ended up with three fabrics:

CIMG1090

My personal paparazzi and best support ever, treated me to the one on the left. It’s going to become an Archer Shirt (or a slight modification of that); the striped one at the top I’ll turn into an Alder Shirt Dress (all as announced here, in the Re-Sew-lution post… though, again, with prints more bold than expected. But WTF. It’s MOOD FABRIC, for heaven’s sake!)

CIMG1089

The last one already accomplished its mission. I decided to use the wrong side of that fabric for the project (left in picture) – I love the washed out look; looks so relaxed, a bit country and yet… exotic… I’m again not making any sense, am I?!

Country-exotic or not, this is what it became; a Colette Pattern Laurel Dress:

CIMG1079

I’ve made that pattern before and although I thus realised that I like it better when I take in more at the waist, make it shorter and take in the back dart by 2cm each, I was under the impression that – yes, this time – I wanted it more loose.

CIMG1084

Turned out; I was wrong. I re-fitted it. On me, it’s much better with a more defined waist.

CIMG1085

So see – I do have a travel blog in a way; I’ve taken you aaaaaaaall the way from Midtown Manhatten to my living room (did you see? I’ve killed my plant ;( – black thumb. That one below the mirror is its successor. Good luck, my little plant friend!).

Hopefully will crack on with the Alder Dress Shirt this weekend. We’ll see… I sort of have to preserve those lovely Mood fabrics for projects on lousy autumn days, where I at least mentally can go back to Manhattan, no?!

Where to fabric shop next????!!!! To infinity – and beyond!

Autumn re-sew-lutions 14

I’ve been thinking (which I do quite frequently) – why wait till the end of the year to wrap up on my re-sew-lutions from the beginning of this year and not recap on all hits and misses NOW AND take those into consideration for the big, foggy challenge of the … daaadaaaaa… AUTUMN WARDROBE…

(Though I might be promising a bit too much here, because what I’ve done in terms of “recap” is add an “Update” for each planned “beginning of year” project… and I’ve included some ranting about my inability to stick to my sewing plans here later in the post – if that is still good with you, be my guest, pull up a chair, remind me to treat you to some red wine shall we ever meet.)

What I’ve started a couple of months ago, you see, is even more thinking – the superficial type; I’ve tried to put a bit more thought into how to put outfits together. Which resulted in quite a lot of frustration and more misses than hits (and me giving a lot of stuff away to charity; if I haven’t worn it in 12 months… why is it still in that wardrobe, if it is not a coat, a wedding dress or ball gown ?! – and even then; shouldn’t I be going to balls more often then?! ). But it’s a … good … sort of frustration. The one that helps you to get better.

Sarai from Colette Patterns inspired me to wardrobe thoughts with her blog series “Wardrobe Architect ”  – very well structured, very informative, very enlightening indeed. Pair this up with Anuschka’s posts on the brilliant  Into Mind style blog (a reading suggestion from Sarai’s blog) and you (I) will only be half depressed that your (my) “signature style” doesn’t come to you (me) over a weekend and a bit.

Right, so – all in all – here we go; that’s what my style book suggests for autumn / winter 2014 / 2015 (there’s a bit too much blue jeans going on there, I know; but what this tells me is: keep it dark and plain from the waist down. I’m not saying that those are the actual pieces I will be going for; these are just IDEAS, I would like to follow. And some of them hand-made, too.)

 

Winter Wardrobe

 

(Did you see how I sneaked two Mulberry bags in there?! And the Burberry Poncho?! Yeah!!!… no,  not going to happen…)
So, this is how I (shape- and pieceswise) envision my autumn / winter wardrobe.
And now, something mysterious will happen – over the next upcoming weeks you’ll be witnessing pure magic; because I will not be sewing what my wardrobe recipe says. Why won’t I be doing this? Because I’m nuts! That’s why. Because amongst the top 10 things I cannot – for the life of me – resist are

1) bold fabric prints

2) experimental sewing pattern

3) cake and red wine (which feed into the sewing challenge (PUN!))

A first proof could well be my upcoming post on my visit to Mood Fabrics in New York. That fabric I bought there! Magic! And the dress I’ve been making with one of the pieces. LOVE! Just NOT what I reckon will suit me. Well done, me! But you can read and judge for yourself once I’ve put this up.

From the start of my sewing on I’ve been doing a frequent Dr Jekyll –> Mr Hyde transformation whenever I visit a fabric store (you’ll see; I’ve done ok at Mood’s… sort of ok in terms of prints). I go for the wildest versions and forget that I’m not (yet) comfortable enough to wear those. ALSO I just LOVE new sewing patterns that much that Mr Hyde always tells me to ignore the fact that a couple of them are not too much me.

So, for the rest of the year, we’ll be doing things a little different. Outfits first; sewing follows (… remind me that I said that, will you!).

So here are a couple of patterns that I think will suit my autumn wardrobe sewing purpose.

 

White Russian by Capital Chic (for a sweater such as the one in the “Winter 14/15” picture above – third from the left):

–> not with the lion though.

The Alder Dress Pattern from Grainline Studio for the second dress on the left:

–> would love to have something like this (I have to say this since I already cut/glued the pattern and bought the PERFECT fabric at Mood’s)

AND / OR this:

 

As for potential other versions – the Wenona Shirt Dress by Named is pretty flirtatious, that little bugger.

–> because I just NEED another shirt dress, don’t I?

 

Also, another knit dress from SewCaroline would do me and the wardrobe good:

–> just not in yellow

 

And could this be a BHL Anna Dress alteration?:

 

For sure there are many more Hemlock Tees from Grainline Studio in the wardrobe plan:

 

And a Laurel Dress or two by Colette Patterns in knit (tried one, half happy; will share) – like those two:

 

What I won’t be able to resist is a bolder version of the Grainline Studio Archer Shirt:

–> I’m thinking (and already bought… uhum… ) Aztec print! And a version as this, just not in that colour:

So there it is – no revolution, just some more re-sew-lutions, no entirely new patterns (though excited for the White Russian and the Alder Shirt Dress that I haven’t tried before) but the clear plan to take a step back from the fabric store offerings and think more closely about that I really will wear (not what I want to wear but what I actually and truly WILL wear). The hint to the aztc print tells you; this will stay a challenge!

And now tell me; I cannot be the only Mr Hyde sewer out there! Or am I…?!

 

Did someone say “let’s be hip in NYC?!” – oh, yes… that was me!

I’ve got to admit to a little silliness here – we’re travelling to New York next week, you see (which is not silly at all, more like Whooopwhoooopwhooop and YESYESYES!) but I can’t help wondering… WHAT WILL I WEAR?! To not stick out as a tourist (silly, when what I should really be thinking about is what I will be shopping there, I guess… as a good tourist…). Right, so, now: Project “pricelessly hip” resulted in this lovely (if I may say so myself) wardrobe addition: The Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studio:

SabineSibilleSews_Hemlock2

(At first I hated my arrogant face in this one, but then I realized: A smug face is exactly what the situation called for!)

Naturally, I’m late to the party again – the pattern was released about a year ago; me being a late follower here had the advantage that I could browse through heaps of lovely Hemlock makes. So I, as many, opted for a colour-blocking version:

SabineSibilleSews_Hemlock3

Jen from Grainline makes this pattern available for free download – which is so very generous of her! It’s such a clever, easy make – only took me three hours from printing to finishing the sleeves..

As you can see, I decided not to hem it. Three reasons (which I think is plenty for such a tiny decision): 1) I love the raw edge of this fabric; it rolls up slightly which I think is fabulously casual; 2) it would have turned out too short if I’d hemmed it and 3) I don’t have a serger and no machines which I could operate with a double needle.

CIMG1065 CIMG1064

The sleeves and neckline  turned out fine, I think; but the rest I wouldn’t have wanted to risk. (Speaking of sewing machine – naturally mine ate the fabric again. Need to get a new one. I’ve reached that point where I shy away from new makes just because I ‘m certain my machine will not follow along… any suggestions for a new one are much appreciated!).

CIMG1062

Definitely going to make piles of those! In lighter cotton and maybe more in that knit.

SabineSibilleSews_Hemlock1

I might not be the hippest in the streets of New York in one week time (which could well be the boyfriend, instead) – but I will definitely “pricelessly hip” with this, I feel. You’ve got to start somewhere…

 

 

“Every girl in her 30s needs a golden party jacket”

… if I may quote myself here.  Muhahahaaaaahaha! Foto 14.08.14 09 59 42

And for the 2nd time (after a slightly messy top I made for mum a year back ) it’s a piece of garment I didn’t make for myself.

One of my friends turned 30 last week. Although this girl definitely deserves a diamond ring without a doubt (or a tiara even), all my mind and budget could come up with was a golden jacket. And even this revelation took a while – since 1) I had to plug up the courage to actually go with the idea (WHAT IF I GET IT WRONG, WHAT IF SHE HATES IT, WHAT IF I HATE IT, WHAT IF IT DOESN’T FIT, AND WHAT SHOULD IT LOOK LIKE ANYWAYS, WHATDOESHELIKEWHATCANIMAKEISTHATFABRICTOBLINGBLING…) and 2) I could forever not decide what fabric to get, what style to choose. I actually bought a “fake fur” version with silver glitter in it; but decided in the end that… this… would just not be right. No clue what I’m going to do with that piece of cloth now, to be honest.

In the end, I felt, that this one, the one with golden threats in it, would be just perfect.

I lined it in – naturally – golden fabric….

Foto 14.08.14 09 54 50

… and added some welt pockets for “practicality” and to break the large black fronts.

Foto 14.08.14 09 54 17

 

The pockets are – I have to say – a good distance from perfect. The fabric does fray quite quickly and that gave me a bit of a headache as I – surprise, surprise – didn’t opt for interfacing. Hurray! Anyways, I’m all in all happy with how these look in the end.

Foto 14.08.14 09 54 26

At the back I added a golden (oh yes) bird pendant, again to have an optical break in the big block of fabric. That and I thought it might look cool.

Foto 14.08.14 09 56 20

It’s a Burda Style pattern which indeed the makers intended for a fake fur jacket (December 2012… way back when all I had done was covers for Kindles and books… dreaming of the big wardrobe edition – haha!).

Foto 14.08.14 09 55 37

And since I couldn’t help it… I had to try it on myself (warning, messy picture) – and liked the style A LOT! Definitely want to make one for myself.

Foto 14.08.14 09 36 11

The thing just is… it fitted me a bit too well; it is still too small, and the style as such is very… generous. But my friend truly is tiny. I though a size 36/38 would do – oh boy, I don’t have it in pictures, but when she tried it on I was like “IT DOESN’T FIT FOR EFFSSAKE”. Even when she was really lovely about it and said, no, it’s good, with a sweater underneath. Felt a bit sorry for myself – and more so for her! Would have loved a gift for her that was actually perfect. I should have known though.; that it might turn out too big. Really! But there you go: Another learning! Change perspective and take better eye measure next time around.

I definitely want one of those for myself, though. Jersey I guess… or a heavy coat fabric for autumn… We’ll see. And I’ll ask every friend to send over her measurements. Just in case.

 

BHL Flora – A Kinder Surprise Egg Dress, if you will…

Alright, I’m giving up! Rational fabric shopping just isn’t for me. I’m trying. But HOW was I supposed to walk away from this?! Particularly when the boyfriend was encouraging me to purchase?!… I see, you agree. No chance.

So, without further ado; may I introduce you to – the By Hand London Flora Dress with altered Sewaholic Cambie Dress Skirt.

CIMG1042

I made this dress for a tiny garden party last weekend. No pictures though, sorry, I forgot (but you can take a look at my new mirror, which is equally entertaining, I imagine).

CIMG1041

We had quite humid weather recently and that dress was just refreshingly cool for that summer afternoon!

CIMG1032

Surely I don’t have to tell anyone about the By Hand London Flora Dress anymore. That design is a stunner!

CIMG1036

I made my first version of the Flora Dress about 4 months (!!!) ago – the actual plan was to making a muslin with some (actually quite nice) fabric I got on sale. And when it turned out pretty well and the social media love for it was quite flattering, too, I was like: “Wha… wearable muslin. Brilliant. Might go out Easter Egg Hunting in it. Job done!”

Turned out, I was wrong. About the Hunt as well as about the part of the muslin being wearable (only the Instagram love was generously accepted; after all, you guys couldn’t see where the bust darts where going… and at the time I still knew too little about how it should actually fit).

To be frank; wherever those darts in my muslin where pointing to … my apex (fancy new word I learned there) was nowhere near there. The bodice was somewhat pulling over the chest, leaving me with a slightly gaping neckline. SO… I made my judgement: An FBA is what is needed!

*** Just to amaze you and me a little:  up to this point I had NOT read any of the fantastic Flora Dress Sew Along post the BHL girls pulled together. Why would I? After all, I was that kid that put her Kinder Surprise eggs together without even glimpsing at what it was supposed to become. Surely, I could work out a pattern adjustment all by myself! This is not work where I have to be efficient, this is my hobby, I just go and DO STUFF***

Although, not really, because (and I love myself a little for this) I invested in a Craftsy Class “Adjust the Bust” (and there is more to adore than just the catching title). That was an actually helpful class with a lot of useful tips on fitting bodices and tops of various styles. Not quite cheap, but worth the money. Loved the math and step-by-step guide to define what adjustments have to be done under what circumstances for what styles.

After working through various parts of the class, I had to give in on the thought that, yes, I had been wrong again. About the FBA. The wrongest wrong. Shocker…. (… dots of suspense)…. I needed an SBA. I never thought of this – mainly because I was always neglecting  the idea of my bust being anywhere close to the letter A (although I am aware that this is different from bra sizes… but be assured: I re-measured that again, too 😉 ). This is why I love sewing! You just have to face the truth or you might as well give up on the hobby all together.

And then I did something mysteriously wonderful: I read the sew along, too.  It was all there! I could have known! It’s once more obvious: By Hand London just rocks! Not only do they make the brilliant styles and patterns, they also fully equip you with the knowledge you need to adjust their design to your body.

 

Up to now I hardly ever bothered with adjustments (although I made an FBA for the Elisalex dress and did all I could to get rid of the gaping neckline on my Cambie dress… reworking that now, too, according to the Craftsy lesson). But now, time is up. Let’s DO STUFF properly.

So I adjusted the pattern (spectacular…):

Foto 05.08.14 19 03 17

Was considering reducing the armhole a little – glad now I didn’t, would have turned out too tight, I imagine now. All of a sudden – couldn’t believe my eyes – it fitted. Perfectly! Who’s the proudest girl in town? That one:

CIMG1030

 

And since I was in such a flow, I also set about altering a skirt pattern. I was very much inspired by Katie’s great skirt on her Anna Dress pattern hack. Gorgeous, isn’t it!!!

The closest to a basic skirt pattern I had for a similar pocket look, was the Cambie Dress A view version. I took in about 4 cm in the hip, narrowed the pocket,  dropped the opening a bit and brought the pockets  more to the center (thus moving the dart to the lining of the pocket… which I thought was awfully clever of me!).

Foto 05.08.14 19 00 38  Foto 05.08.14 18 59 00

Also, I added more fabric at the front so I could gather the part between the pockets. And that was that.

Foto 05.08.14 19 01 14  Foto 05.08.14 19 01 30

I did what I had never done before; I decided to fully line it in cream white – so that the white flowers would glow even more – beside the Crepe the Chine just screamed for lining, really.

CIMG1033

Invisible zipper: a lot of cursing – no invisible zipper foot. Too clumsy for hand stitching! I managed, but it was painful. There is a tiny crease at the back of the skirt where the zipper ends. But at that point I really couldn’t be bothered. I’m still fine with it. Particularly because I have no clue about how I would have been able to change it.

You know what they say: Love it, change it or leave it. I opted for love.

You might have guessed; yes, I’m in love with this dress. ALTHOUGH I usually love to cover up my shoulders a bit more. But for a summer dress… you just need straps, don’t you?

Plus I’m in love with the skirt, too. This is definitely a style I’m going to try for a dress with more structured fabric, too… most likely, again, in crazy, blinding colours. Why break with traditions.

Also, I might make a habit out of reading sewing instructions…

And with that – I’ve talked too much – good bye!

 

Remember to love the honesty that comes with sewing, everyone!!

“Ciao, bella” is for “OMG-looking-at-that-dress-makes-me-feel-slightly-dizzy”

Peewwwh! Just in time! Tomorrow we’re off to Lake Garda for a quick breakaway – and this is the dress the Italians will see me wear ALL THE TIME!

Welcome to the family, OutAndAbout Dress by SewCaroline!

20140621-174211-63731220.jpg

When I went out fabric hunting I really really really was looking for something more… low key… But, you see, I had just been to the swim wear department; cluttered with screaming prints and gorgeous summer colours. Which doesn’t help when they only have sizes in stock that I’ll never ever fit into in this life. So colour shocked and sized depressed as I was I entered the fabric department… and then this print came along. BANG!

20140621-174532-63932554.jpg

And it’s soooo soft, too! It’s not quite as light as I thought… drags the waistline down quite a bit; which was also the reason why I decided to shorten the bodice by 3cm. I wanted the skirt to hit at the higher waist – but I guess it’s ok the way it is now.

A bit of swinging to this side…

20140621-174841-64121888.jpg

… and than that side…

20140621-174844-64124323.jpg

… smug face…

20140621-174839-64119614.jpg

The dress itself came together really easily! It was fun (and, hell, was I scared to sew with knit… isn’t the material that grants me the most success….). Loved the pattern! See easy – so clever! (it confused my local copy shop assistant though: “You sure you want it to be printed like this? I could make those lines fit to the whole page – this looks like something has been cut off.” – it took us a bit to decide how to print the pattern, but we made it!). I decided not to top stich along the neckline. I tried, mind you, but felt I was about to mess up the whole dress with my effort. And after I saw that it lays perfectly flat now anyways I simple couldn’t be asked to give it another try.

20140621-175346-64426425.jpg

Best cutting investment ever, by the way: A rotary cutter! Perfect!! Made it so much easier to work with this soft and slightly slippery material!

20140621-175958-64798398.jpg

Wish I had had this for past projects, already!!

Let me end on a side note: This thing…

20140621-180110-64870969.jpg

… was supposed to be the Lake Garda outfit originally. Nice try ( I thought at first) but too short as a whole unless I walk slightly hunched over… depressing… might give it another go… next … summer…

Hope the sun is out wherever you are! Enjoy the summer, all! I’m off to Lake Garda… Arrivederci! You can spot me if you look out for the one tourist wraped in the most offensive colours! 🙂

Early Bird Bomber Jacket

This is why I need temperatures to drop instantly by about 5-7°C, please.

BirdBomber

Although I didn’t line it and the body’s fabric is light cotton stretch fabric, this Burda Bomber Jacket is definitely too warm for our current 35°C+.

20140610-070519-25519571.jpg

Finishing this actually took forever (more modeling shots at the end of the post).

20140610-070423-25463302.jpg

For once it wasn’t my blogging laziness that kept this jacket from the world; I actually had to overcome four major milestones for this projects…

A “milestone” I won’t  include in the counting is my realisation: “I need a bomber jacket” – sure, I had an eye on the Papercut Rigel Bomber Jacket and I still feel horribly guilty for not buying that pattern but opting for a Burda Magazine one instead.

One should support the indie pattern makers – not least because I’m sure the Papercut instructions would have been much much better to follow (from what I’ve read everywhere). Personally I find the Burda ones quite daunting. They make me feel even more a sewing fool than (I think) I actually am. But yes, well, I didn’t put my money with the Papercut crew simply out of laziness. Bad decision,  when I look at all the alterations I had to make for the Burda version. Anyways… what’s past is past… bad karma… need to work with that… But I am pretty happy with my Bomber Jacket Result now anyways. After this had happened…

1. Hunt for THE PERFECT fabric.

Lucky me, there was a “Dutch Fabric Market” in town (or close to Munich) one weekend and I went off to find the perfect fabric there (Side note: That Market… guys… you have no idea! Every story they tell about the Amazon warriors must be true; it was insane! There were women tackling each others, honestly! Also, I came to realize once again that over here sewing still had a slightly different audience from what I see in e.g. the UK. Really interesting! Not the fabric fight though! That was rather frightening!).

I’ll tell you more about why the fabric choice was more difficult than usual in another post, but just quickly: I intensively studied Sarai’s  superb blog series on Wardrobe Architecture a while ago (perfect workshops and inspirations, it really taught me so much about my own style and my quite schizophrenic sewing / dressing behaviour). While working through it I came to realize that, actually, I could not really follow through with the plans I had made for the Bomber Jacket. I originally wanted it to look like those (with neutral sleeves…):

Floral nonetheless…  definitely floral! But you see, the thing is, I’m just not “floral” … I would love to be that person that can comfortably pull off floral prints and I do sometimes, very specific ones… but the Wardrobe Architecture revelation was; no, I’m just not your flower girl. So what then? Long story short: No, I’m not a bird woman either. The fabric I went for just caught me. I fell in love with it as I sometimes do with e.g. floral prints. I just couldn’t let go of it, no matter my better judgement.

But I figure… it will work – occasionally – I’m still in love with it, though it hardly matches anything I have in my closet. Ah, to hell!

So there you go: Milestone 1 mainly occurred due to the fact that I had to overcome some emotional and cognitive uncertainties. Done! (The black fabric for the sleeves… by the way… yeah… I don’t do black… ah, well… you see, this is getting really complicated to argue now, right…? It has a light waffle texture and since all was lost anyways with the bird print and everything I ones again thought: “ah, to hell” and bought it).

20140610-070609-25569770.jpg

2. Making a muslin and opting for change.

Accidentally (whoops) I bought some other fabric at the Holland Fabric Market. Yellow? Yeah… no yellow normally. But it was cheap and just the right cloth to practice a bomber jacket…  The cuffs are made from scrap fabric from a top (un-instagramed; un-everything) I finished a couple of weeks ago. Hipster… a bit 80s maybe… I’m sure somewhere somehow in another life I could pull this off!

20140610-070644-25604056.jpg

After inserting one sleeve and getting stuck with the neckline I decided to shorten the sleeves by a good 5cm, tighten the cuffs, take in the waist a bit and lower the neckline considerably (yes, yes… Papercut look alike, I know, I feel awful). I  considered shortening the body… but then the print would have gone to waste… so the general length straight how it was.

3. Forever not being able to decide how to cut into that print.

So, I wanted to make most out of this print. More birds? More trees? Print only at the back or all over, so back and front?

Farbric

I guess it took me about 1 week after Milestone 2 to cut out the fabric pieces. Happy with how one can see both the sky and the “forest” plus a lot of birds on my front, now. Nevertheless, the cut out pieces sat at my sewing table / dinning table for a good two-three weeks before I finally got the time to sew it all up.

4. Sew, swearing over having two left sleeves, getting confused by the welt pocket instructions, starting to get angry at the sewing machine, realising it’s my fault.

I wasn’t really THAT busy lately; but still enough to stay away from the sewing table (and when I was there I did other stuff in order to avoid messing the Bird Bomber up). Naturally I eventually chose  the so far hottest day of this year to sew up a jacket. Bank holiday it was yesterday, so enough time – after lovely brunch with friends – to start and finish  all of the birdly fun. All of the things mentioned in the headline 4 happened, of cause. But I really think that my sewing machine should take part of the blame. When I started to top-stich the zipper that baby just went nuts! I don’t really know what happened but the under-threat just wouldn’t go straight. I changed the needle, re-threated… I managed a wobbly top-stich in the end. Good enough to be content, though.

So there we go! I made it!

CIMG0902

CIMG0909

CIMG0903

CIMG0911

I believe the market where I fought my way through to that fabric must have been end of April… so six weeks to finish… oh boy!  BUT I blogged about it straight away, so that is something, I guess!

If I had to make another version;

a) I’d shorten the body to high-waist (with different print of course) so I can wear it with dresses / skirts (my wardrobe architecture will tell you why this might be a good idea… if I ever blog about it).

b) I’d try to align the zipper with the neckline (damn it!)

c) I’d consider lining it, because – honestly – the inside does look a bit of a mess with the pockets  dangling there…

Apart from my Tiger Lilly Anna Dress (which I instagramed last summer) I guess this is the “wildest” closet add-on so far (and if I stick to what I found out about myself and my clothes there should only occasionally be any wild additions). That Bird Bomber really only is a tiny fraction “me”… but that tiny bit loves this jacket a lot!!!

I consider wearing by Bird Bomber to work – or at least walk to work in it (once temperatures drop again). I can’t wait to observe myself how I work this jacket… let’s see how it makes me (and others?) feel. I’ll let you know! Have a lovely Tuesday everyone!

Hinab geht der Blick ins Dunkel… Sewaholic Cambie Dress

So, da – da isses – das Sewaholic Cambie Dress.

vorne3

Ist schon ewig und drei Tage fertig – und dennoch erst 1x getragen. Warum? Weil ich nicht glücklich damit bin. Warum bin ich nicht glücklich damit? Na, weil ich mir wirklich so so so viel MÜHE gemacht habe, ordentlich, konzentriert und sauber zu arbeiten (wie ich’s mir selbst versprochen hatte).

Die beiden Bilder unten lügen – ich habe ganze VIER Proben erstellt; Brustumfang vergrößert, Halsausschnitt verkleinert, Brustumfang wieder kleiner gemacht, Halsausschnitt noch mal angepasst… endend mit der (vermeintlichen) Feststellung, dass ich zweite (die Sternenvariante) doch die beste Passform hatte. Davon einmal abgesehen, dass ich das Oberteil ca. 3cm kürzen musste, um bei meiner “natürlichen Hüfte” anzukommen (was ok ist; das ist eine häufige Änderung, die ich bei Schnittmustern vornehmen muss).

 

Foto 1 (3) Cambie_details3

Und dann sah auch erst mal alles ganz gut aus…

 

Cambie details2  Foto 2 (2)

 

Immerhin: Liebe zum Detail war ja gegeben. Taschenfutter (ja, jaja… ich will jetzt nicht hören, dass/ob das Bild vom Innenfutter leicht obszön aussieht oder nicht. Bitte? Nein, ich weiß nicht, was ich meine… ich weiß gar nichts.). Der Herzausschnitt ist weg, die kräuseligen Puff-Ärmelchen auch, die – von der passenden Person getragen – sicher hübsch aussehen würden, mich aber wie eine Karnevalsprinzessin dastehen lassen.

hinten

Der aufgesetzte Jacken-Reißverschluss gefällt mir auch sehr gut, gibt der ganzen Sache noch mehr “edge”… (neudeutsch für “Pfiff”, glaube ich).

vorne2

 

Aber bereits hier deutet sich an, was das Problem meiner Cambie Variante ist, wenn ich nicht 120% grade stehe / sitze – der Ausschnitt klafft auf wie der Marianengraben. Dabei war ich mir doch sicher, dass Probe No.2 Entwarnung geben hatte. Schien doch alles in Ordnung. Gelogen.

(Außerdem ist der Rock ein wenig eng, weil ich ihn schon bewusst nicht so bauschig haben wollte… mit dem engeren Rock könnte ich auch leben, wenn der Marianengraben nicht wäre.)

Folgendes meine ich zu wissen:

Der Oberbrustumfang ist das Problem. Da kann man am Brustumfang rumbauen, wie man lustig ist, das da drüber hat einfach schon nicht gestimmt. Ich bilde mir ein, da hat mir auch eine Vergrößerung nichts gebracht. Dankenswerter Weise bin ich ja nun doch eine der letzten, die dieses Schnittmuster in der Näh-Blogosphäre ausprobiert. Hilfreiche Tipps zu diversen Problemen gab es da schon zu Hauf (super FBA-Anleitung übrigens hier bei Alison). Aber Nähspezialist Google hat mir einfach keine Lösung zu meinem konkreten Problem gegeben.

Wie gesagt, das Projekt ist ja schon ein paar Wöchelchen alt – man lernt ja laufend. Z.B., dass es mit Unternähen am Ausschnitt vermutlich schon getan wäre. Höchst wahrscheinlich ließe sich das Problem mit Auftrennen und erneutem Festnähen des Ober- an den Unterstoff schnell beheben. Aber ich scheue die Expedition runter in den Marianengraben. Sie wäre genau das, was ich mir für 2014 an Näh-Abenteuer vorgenommen habe. Aber ich bin schlicht noch zu beleidigt auf mich, dass mir das nicht sofort ein- und aufgefallen ist. Ich mach’s schon noch – nur nicht sofort… ich umkreise es lieber noch ein bisschen… vielleicht… vielleicht ist ja auch an einer geraden Körperhaltung gar nichts auszusetzen. Aber schade wäre es drum. Ich werd’s nie tragen, wenn es nicht vernünftig sitzt, verflixt noch einmal!!!

Sollte jemand Anregungen haben, welche andere Lösung es für das klaffende Problemchen gibt, her damit! ICH WILL NICHT NOCH MAL ALLES AUFTRENNEN… umpf…

 

 

P.S.: Generell: Ein sehr sehr schönes Schnittmuster, das auch wirklich Spaß gemacht hat. Ich will’s jetzt nicht schlecht reden! Noch begeisterter wäre ich halt gewesen, wenn alles direkt gut hingehauen hätte – aber für meine Schusseligkeit kann das Schnittmuster nur begrenzt etwas 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WordPress.com.

Up ↑